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 Sometimes I wonder what people are thinking when they buy needles for their projects. Many times in class I’ll ask “What kind of needle are you using?” Nine times out of ten I hear “Umm, I’m not sure!”
WHAT!? Not only does that mean you are probably using the wrong needle, it also means it’s been a long time (way too long) since you’ve CHANGED your needle!! The second most common answer is “It’s a universal needle” Now, I don’t want to give universal needles a bad rap. They’re good, they have their place, but they aren’t always the best choice for your project. First, let’s look at the anatomy of a sewing machine needle. SHANK: The top of the needle that goes into the machine. Typically there is a flat side and a round side to ensure perfect alignment. SHAFT: The rest of the length of the needle. FRONT GROOVE: If you look closely at your needle, there is a groove on the front of the needle. POINT: The tip of the needle that penetrates the fabric. SCARF: On the back of the needle, notice and flatter groove. This allows the bobbin hook to loop thread allowing for less skipped stitches. EYE: The hole in the needle in which you put the thread through. Threading Tip: If you wet the eye of the needle with your fingers and guide your thread down the front groove, you will have an eaier time threading your needle. The thread will pop right into the eye. Let’s talk numbers! The numbers on the needle tell you the diameter of the shaft and the size of the eye. They type of needle tells you the type of point the needle has. The larger the number, the larger the width of the needle and eye. The numbers on the right (60-120) are European/metric numbers. The ones on the left are based on American sizing standards. Note: Double and triple needles have a different set of numbers. The first number is the distance between the needles in mm. The second is the European needle size. Select your needle size based on the weight of your fabric, the lighter the fabric, the lower the needle number should be. | Fabric | Needle Size (American) | | Very Light Weight | 8 or 9 | | Lightweight | 9, 10, or 11 | | Medium-weight | 12 or 14 | | Heavyweight | 14 or 16 | | Very Heavy | 16 or 18 | Needle Types: General Purpose Needles Universal Point Needle – Sewing machine needles for most woven and knit fabrics. For use in all household machines that require a flat shank. The point is slightly rounded, yet sharp enough to pierce tightly woven fabrics, yet rounded enough to push between the yarns of a knitted fabric. Sizes: 8/60 to 19/120
Sharp/Microtex Needle – Sharp point for stitching woven fabrics, including silk and the newest microfiber fabrics. Use especially for topstitching and edge stitching. Sizes 8/60, 10/70, 12/80 and 14/90.
Ball Point Needle – Point is slightly rounded. Use for stitching knit fabrics. Helps to eliminate runs. Sizes: 10/70 to 16/100.
Overlock Needle – Sharp point suitable for all fabrics. Sizes: BLX1 (2-11, 2-14) and DCX1 (2-11, 3-14) Choose system recommended by machine manufacturer. Specialty Needles Jeans/Denim Needle – Very sharp point and stiff shank. Use for stitching jeans, canvas and multiple layers of fabric. Sizes: 10/70 to 18/110
Stretch Needle – Designed for stitching knit fabrics that contain spandex or spandex�. This needle has a deeper scarf that prevents skipped stitches. May not be compatible for all machines. Sizes: 11/75 and 14/90
Topstitch Needle – Extra sharp point with an extra large eye and a large groove to accommodate topstitching thread. Use for topstitching. Sizes: 12/80, 14/90 and 16/100
Leather Needle – Slight cutting point for stitching through leather, suede and vinyl. Never use on woven or knit fabrics. Sizes: 12/8- to 18/110
Hemstitch/Wing Needle – Point has wide metal wings on the sides to create large holes in tightly-woven fabrics, such as linen and batiste. Use for hemstitching, heirloom embroidery and other decorative stitching. Sizes: HEM/100 and HEM/120
Quilting Needle – Tapered needle with a sharp point for stitching through multiple layers of fabric and intersecting seams. Sizes: 11/75 and 14/90
Machine Embroidery Needle – Designed with a special scarf and a large eye to prevent shredding and breakage when sewing with rayon and special machine embroidery threads. Sizes: 11/75 and 14/90
Metallica Needle – Special scarf, large eye and large groove prevent shredding of delicate metallic threads during stitching. Size: 12/80
Self-Threading Needle – General purpose needle with slip-in threading slot for those who have difficulty threading needles. Sizes: 12/80 and 14/90
Spring Needle – For free-hand machine embroidery, quilting and monogramming. Designed with a wire cage around it that acts like a presser foot only when the needle enters the fabric, the cage rises. This makes stitching easier. Universal Sizes: 10/70, 12/80 and 14/90 Double Needles (In order to use double needles/triple needles, your sewing machine must have zig-zag capability, even if straight stitching. Test these first by manually turning the hand wheel!)  Double Needle – Constructed with two needles on a crossbar from a single shaft. Can be used with zigzag sewing machines that thread front to back. Sews two rows of stitching at the same time. Used for heirloom sewing, decorating stitching and hemming. The space between the needles varies and is measured in millimeters.
Sizes: 1.6/70 to 4.0/100
Triple Needle – Three needles on a single shaft. Stitches three rows at the same time for decorative stitching. Sizes: 2.5 and 3.0
Special Point Double Needles Double Denim Needle – Size: 4.0/100
Double Stretch Needle – Sizes: 2.5/75 and 4.0/75
Double Embroidery Needle – Sizes: 2.0/75 and 3.0/75
Double Metallica Needle – Size: 2.5/80
Double Hemstitch Needle – One wing and one regular needle for hemming on heirloom projects.
Extra Wide Double Needle – For use in machines with at least 6.0mm stitch width. Sizes: 6.0/100 and 8.0/100 Remember to change your needle often and use the proper needle for the specific project you are working on. The sharper the needle, the less damage you will do to your fabric! If you have any questions, feel free to contact Cheryl at
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. You are also welcome to refer to our online store to purchase your needles. Happy Stitching! Cheryl |
After juggling a blog, website and webstore, we have finally agreed they all need to be combined, simplified and in one place! Here you will find it all, and I hope you enjoy your visit.
